Beerista: Let’s talk about hops

These magical small green plants can produce a fascinating variety of flavours from grapefruit to honey

Everybody's on about humulus lupulus these days. Brewers can't get enough of them, drinkers are wild for them and growers can't keep up.

I'm talking about hops, of course. Or, more specifically, the small green cones that come from the humulus lupulus plant. Their function? To give beer its bitterness, flavour and aroma.

Over the past few years a kind of hop craze has swept across the brewing world, radically changing tastes and techniques. And there is something almost magical about these small complex plants rammed with oils and chemicals that can create flavours ranging from pineapple and sandalwood to liquorice and green peppers.

Traditionally, hops were used mainly for bittering purposes but with the rise of hoppy craft beers, they are now thrown in at various stages during brewing (called late hopping and dry hopping) to intensify all those heavenly fruity or floral aromas.

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While new, hoppy IPAs (India pale ales) hit the market almost every week, other styles are now getting the hoppy twist: hoppy reds, hoppy stouts, hoppy brown ales. And it's not restricted to beer either – true fanatics can even get "hop-infused beard oil" with Centennial and Citra hops so they never have to feel far from their next tasty pint.

The only problem is the shortage caused by bad weather and increased demand. It's tough now to get popular US "hipster hops" like Mosaic, Simcoe or Amarillo and so the pressure is on for microbrewers to use other varieties and get more inventive.

“Hoppy” can mean delicate or in-your-face – as seen in these two Irish beers: Dungarvan’s Comeragh Challenger is an Irish bitter showcasing Challenger English hops – it has a malty and smooth finish, a clean, floral flavour and it’s an easy drinker at 3.8% (and gluten free). White Hag’s Irish IPA is a big beer at 7.2%, using five American hop varieties, and it’s bursting with mouth-watering citrus, pine and grassy aromas.

@ITbeerista